Eating in Rome: The Places That Actually Deliver
It's easy to get Rome wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning when I chased a croissant down via the wrong alley off Via del Corso, only to find myself face-to-face with a family of pigeons arguing over a discarded espresso cup. I’d been told to "go where the Romans eat," but I hadn’t realized that meant not just any restaurant, but a specific kind of place—where the locals are already there, the menus are written in Italian, and the pasta is made fresh that day. I ended up at a tiny spot called Osteria da Enzo al 29, tucked away on a quiet corner of Via dei Serpenti, where the owner, Enzo, handed me a menu written on a napkin and said, "Today, we have cacio e pepe made with pecorino from his own farm." I paid 12 euros for a plate that tasted like the heart of Rome, and I’ve been hooked ever since. One thing most visitors get wrong is thinking that every trattoria is the same. Rome is full of hidden gems, but they’re not all created equal. I’ve ...